True, but those things are achievable for “normal” people without having loads of money to begin with…well, maybe less so in the US where education is so expensive compared to other places.
True, but those things are achievable for “normal” people without having loads of money to begin with…well, maybe less so in the US where education is so expensive compared to other places.
Black ended the challenge having completed 10 months, with just 60 days left to run. He had managed to make a grand total of $64,000.
Pretty damn far from a million, but much more than many make in a year still. I do wonder if he used contacts/network he made while wealthy, that would easily completely invalidate the point he was trying to make.
Garmin is pretty much gold standard when it comes to sports tracking. Most other brands are a step down, and I imagine a FOSS watch like the bangle.js is a significant step down from Garmin watches WRT sports tracking.
The solution was more cooling. It was warping due to too much heat, I increased cooling to 100% and reduced overhang speed slightly and it now prints well.
Both ASA and ABS are approved materials. ASA has higher heat defection than ABS, should be easier to print and it smells significantly less when printing.
Fans are completely disabled, except for overhangs and bridges. If I disable fans for overhangs and bridges, they sag like crazy.
I doubt draft shield is going to do anything, the printer is already completely enclosed in a tent. I have around 50-55°C inside the tent.
Edit: I tried a re-print with less cooling for overhangs, it seems to exacerbate the issue significantly.
Piped isn’t working for me either anymore. I was using piped.adminforge.de before, but I’ve tried other instances too without any luck. It won’t load play any videos at all. I can search and find stuff without issues, but I can’t play anything.
You’re just making it worse better.
These watches typically come with charging cables, not a docking style station that you put them in. And keeping devices at a perpetual full charge for expended periods of time is a surefire way to kill the capacity quickly.
I mean, I get a full week from my coros pace 2, with 5-6h of GPS cardio tracking (running) and 24h metrics (steps, stress, sleep, etc.) on a 310mAh battery. It takes a whopping 2h to recharge back to full, I would hate having to manage a tiny extra battery to save those 2h of not wearing my watch.
If all you want from a watch is time and alarms, you’re obviously not even remotely in the demographic that any smartwatch is targeting.
So am I, no hiccups whatsoever.
On top of that, the bZ4x is apparently a really shitty car. So on top of only having that one model, it’s also a terrible one.
The comment I originally commented on compared them as if they were similar tool, (before it was edited), which I simply pointed out it is not. It’s like saying a plane and a helicopter are the same, sure they both are able to lift off the ground, but the similarities kind of stop there.
But they don’t really have similar scopes… One is for technical models, based on extruded 2D drawings, the other is for abstract 3D modelling. Sure in both if them the end product is a 3D model, but they’re achieved in vastly different ways with completely different skillsets and different use cases.
Blender is not CAD software though, it’s 3D modelling software. They’re not quite the same thing, and they’re intended for (and excel at) different things.
Would this be a good entry level device?
Kind of impossible to say right now, it’s not released yet. On paper it seems like a good deal, almost too good at that price point. I wouldn’t buy one until I’ve seen some reviews.
Damn, that’s a crazy low price for a coreXY with a 42.000cm^3 build volume
max resolution of 720p in web browsers
What the fucking fuck!? That shit should be illegal AF if you pay for the 1080p or 4k tier…
Wow yeah that first one is pretty terrible looking 😅
I’m decently pleased with mine though, but I’m really looking forward to the quality on the voron. I actually already have “the filter” on my current printer (slightly oddly placed in the tent, but it works), and I just connected it directly to the printer PSU and manually turn it on/off with a toggle switch.