If your printer is tuned well and is direct drive, there should be absolutely nothing in your way. Just print the parts separately and, if you want, in different colors. Happy printing!

Apologies for such a belated answer, but I would advise you to steer clear of Tinkercad. It is fairly limited in what it can do, and the skills you acquire there don’t really transfer to more advanced CAD software. If I were you, I’d start in Fusion 360, even though I don’t like it and use FreeCAD myself, because it’s beginner friendly and there are a lot of tutorials on how to use it and for what. I would also advise you to start with something simple, like a hook for example. It is a fairly steep learning curve, and there are quirks if you are making something for 3D printing specifically. If you want more info, don’t be afraid to DM me, I’ll try to set you on the right path. Cheers!

Happy printing!

But what if I need only one and I need it today?

Never saw it before, does look similar though. But I guess there are only so many ways of making a thing fit inside another thing through a cutout.

I am more of a double sided tape guy, but you are very welcome to remix the model.

It has a 60°C short program. Fiberlogy PETG doesn’t warp at those temps.

That is why I regularly disassemble mine and toss them in the dishwasher to prevent mold and to clean them from dust and drinks.

If anyone is interested, the problem was due to packing material not being completely removed from under the printbed.

So, the PSU voltage switch is for setting input voltage. You might be running it on 110V instead of 230V, though unlikely but it doesn’t hurt to check.

Checking the y motor and endstop wiring I recommended because I had a similar problem on my x-axis when my motor wire and endstop wire came loose, where the motor was jittering and buzzing, but not moving.

The .cfg file is the configuration file for Klipper firmware, which is taylored for your printer. Since you said that your firmware issues got fixed I don’t think that’s it, but if nothing else, redownload and reinstall the .cfg file and if that does not help, reinstall klipper as a last resort. Do so only if nothing else helps.

If you need more help, I could help you through video chat. Just DM me.

Just in case, check the PSU Voltage. Check the plugs on the Y axis motor. Worst case, you might need to redownload the CFG file for your printer. Try that. Write again if none of that works.

What country are you located in?

So I have used the sv06 and had a bit of a run in with the sv07. Both are decent machines with their own quirks. The sv06 needs bearings replaced after 3 months of use at the latest, after that runs perfectly. The sv07 uses v-wheels, and is therefore lower maintenance. They both use the same toolhead design and both print well enough. sv07 is a bit more finnicky with cooling (special klipper command for the big fan) but they are both decent machines. I personally run a heavily modified Ender 3 v2, but currently, the Sovols are some of the best bang for the buck. Right now, I would buy the sv06, change the bearings from day one and that’s it. It is basically a 1:1 copy of a Prusa, and printing replacement parts for it is extremely easy, if anything ever breaks. The only thing it “lacks” is a filament sensor (haven’t had the need for one in the time I have been printing), but that is easily added. Do your own research though. Lost in Tech has some great reviews on both machines.

All printers use the same components. Same motors, leadscrews and belts. If the printer is built well, the precision will be the same. You obviously have play in some machines, but due to the variance in filament it can vary from negligible to basically nonexistent. It’s not the machines fault most of the time. Polymers have variance and sometimes unpredictable behaviour. Just part of the game.

So lets start from the top:

1. All printers have the same precision.

2. I guess you’re talking about input shaping, which reduces artifacts and shaking of the printer (a little)

3. Most budget printers right now have lots of the same creature comforts that this printer has.

Right now the biggest things are community/aftermarket support (moddability), price and firmware. You should get Klipper to get input shaping, so that narrows it down. Look for some klipper printers (e.g. Sovol sv07) and decide which one you like best. They are almost all the same, save for qc and qa issues by some companies and sometimes lackluster support. Any printer can produce awesome prints. It’s only a question of how much time you have to fiddle with the settings. Cheers!

Glass bead thermistors have very fragile wires and sometimes you can’t see a break that has occured. I replaced mine with a cartridge as fast as possible, but good on you for finding and solving the problem.

Maybe you need to dry your filament? Blobs and stringing sound like a water boiling problem.

Master spool standard has mesurements the refill is supposed to fit in. The spool is printable on a 200x200 bed, that’s why it’s so popular. Every website I have seen, they state ckearly when compatible so idk.

As far as I know yes.

Fuck any manufacturer who makes their own standard. We have one. We don’t need a new one. Vote with your wallet. Unless the manufacturer specifies they are compatible, don’t buy it. Simple and easy.